'GENDERQUAKE': A sartorial rebellion against conformity

One of the SCAD Museum of Art’s latest exhibitions, GENDERQUAKE: Liberation, Appropriation, Rejection, is an exploration of fashion’s evolution and the role it plays in challenging gender norms. Co-curated by renowned fashion journalists Stefano Tonchi and Marta Franceschini, the exhibition showcases garments that evoke stories of rebellion, self-expression, and the fluidity of identity. At the heart of GENDERQUAKE are the works of designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin and photographer Michael Bailey-Gates, both of whom took part in the conversation “Awaken Selfdom: Art as Protest,” presented during SCADstyle 2024.

Co-curated by renowned fashion journalists Stefano Tonchi and Marta Franceschini, the 'GENDERQUAKE' exhibition showcases garments that evoke stories of rebellion, self-expression, and the fluidity of identity. I Photo by SCAD

Saint Sernin’s bold designs, unbound by gendered restrictions, and Bailey-Gates’ intimate portraits, which celebrate the diversity of the human form, perfectly encapsulate the exhibition’s themes.

“Every piece or garment that we know through the history of fashion has always carried some important message: messages of repression or liberation, messages of rebellion or convention,”

Tonchi remarked during the discussion, emphasizing the power of clothing to communicate and challenge societal expectations. Saint Sernin shared his journey of self-discovery through fashion, stating,

“It’s just really fascinating to see how much we’re able to achieve in a lifetime and how, for me, for example, fashion is a medium of that expression. At the end of the day, I’m so happy that my clothes have the ability to liberate people and make them feel empowered and amazing.”

'GENDERQUAKE' is organized into three thematic sections: liberation, appropriation, and rejection, each highlighting different aspects of fashion’s relationship with the journey of self. I Photo by SCAD

Bailey-Gates’ photographs, which often feature nude subjects, challenge conventional notions of representation.

“I think a lot of times when I’m showing nude work, I do nudity because the clothes don’t fit,” they explained. “I guess my question is, what’s the alternative?”

GENDERQUAKE is organized into three thematic sections: liberation, appropriation, and rejection, each highlighting different aspects of fashion’s relationship with the journey of self.

“We decided to end on rejection because we also wanted to show that rejecting labels is not just something that belongs to 2022 or 2023. It’s something that was always ingrained in the way some people, some artists, some creators worked in different fields,” Franceschini noted.

One of the most inspiring aspects of 'GENDERQUAKE' is the placement of queer creators like Saint Sernin and Bailey-Gates at the forefront, highlighting groundbreaking works that resonate with and inspire other LGBTIQA+ students. I Photo by SCAD

The exhibition invites visitors to look beyond the surface of fashion and photography — to search for deeper meanings and messages — aptly addressed by Tonchi who reflected,

“I think we should sometimes stop and look for clothes or images and look for the meaning of them. That’s really the mission that we have as curators, as researchers, and the lesson that I think we want to teach.”

One of the most inspiring aspects of GENDERQUAKE is the placement of queer creators like Saint Sernin and Bailey-Gates at the forefront, highlighting groundbreaking works that resonate with and inspire other LGBTIQA+ students. SCAD’s commitment to showcasing diverse perspectives through events like SCADstyle is vital to the amplification of all voices, providing a platform for important conversations and encouraging the next generation of artists and designers to push boundaries and express themselves.

At the heart of 'GENDERQUAKE are the works of designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin and photographer Michael Bailey-Gates, both of whom took part in the conversation during SCADstyle 2024. I Photo by SCAD

GENDERQUAKE: Liberation, Appropriation, Rejection is a must-see for anyone interested in the intersection of fashion, identity, and social change. It offers an empowered perspective on the importance of art and design to challenge norms and inspire authentic self-expression.

The exhibition is on view through July 2, 2024, at the SCAD Museum of Art.

Written by Aayush Anima Aggarwal